When craft isn’t enough

AI styling, digital selves, holiday slowdown, Paris brands ascend, Kering rebounds, Aman expands

Author

Olga Merzlyakova
October 13, 2025

Fashion month is over. The biggest designer debuts are behind us, the critics have spoken, but the real verdict will come next season — when the sales reports arrive. What struck me this time was how much of the craft gets lost through a (mobile) screen. The extraordinary detail of Schiaparelli or Chanel can’t always compete with the instant buzz of loud color at Versace or surreal accessories at Dior. It makes me wonder: is impeccable taste still enough to hold attention, or has it become the baseline — a quiet prerequisite in a market that rewards noise? As we move from runway season into the shopping season, that tension feels even more relevant. Craft versus visibility. Especially now, when AI, algorithms, and discounts are shaping not just what we buy, but how we decide what’s worth noticing. Maybe that’s the real story of this season: taste alone no longer sells — it has to be packaged with visibility now part of the craft.

Caught my eye

Shanghai-based photographer Leslie Zhang and his interpretation of reality

Trends — what’s bubbling underneath the headlines

  • Holiday shopping in its AI era
    Adobe expects U.S. online holiday sales to reach $253.4 billion this year, up 5.3% from 2024 — with Cyber Week alone driving 17% of total spend.

    What’s striking this year isn’t the scale of spending but how people are shopping. Mobile will account for more than half of online purchases, Buy Now Pay Later will add another $2 billion in flexible spending, and AI-driven search assistants are starting to shape decisions before consumers ever reach a retailer’s site. I find it fascinating because this is where retail control is quietly changing hands. The first recommendation no longer comes from a brand ad — it comes from an algorithmic assistant.

  • Revolve gets into outfit engineering.
    Just a year ago, AI in retail meant recommendation engines and warehouse optimization. Now, it’s becoming the creative layer of commerce.

    Revolve has launched a new “Build a Look” feature powered by Zelig AI, letting shoppers create complete outfits from a single starting item — automatically suggesting complementary pieces in real time. Zelig’s AI is supposedly trained by stylists to understand proportion, drape, and emotion — the nuances that make an outfit feel right. Fashion is entering an era where intelligence means taste, not tech.

  • Stitch Fix doubles down on digital selves.
    Once known for its data-driven “style boxes,” Stitch Fix is betting on Gen AI to re-energize its business. The company just launched a tool that lets users create a digital likeness — a personalized avatar to virtually try on clothes before ordering. It’s part of a broader push to make Stitch Fix’s AI styling more interactive and emotionally engaging, turning what was once a logistics-driven service into an immersive retail experience. The next retail advantage won’t come from knowing what people buy, but why. AI that captures emotion and aspiration will drive the next phase of customer loyalty.

  • Aman sets sail

    One of my favorite trends — and one I keep coming back to — is the shift toward experiences over things, where the journey matters more than the destination.

    Aman is expanding beyond land with Amangati, its first yacht, set to debut in 2027. Designed to reflect Aman’s signature calm and exclusivity, the vessel will feature only a few suites. As luxury hospitality brands move into new travel verticals, Aman is turning its aesthetic into a full lifestyle ecosystem — extending from resorts to residences, and now, to the sea.

Business moves, big numbers & “wait, what?”

  • Brand Ambition: French Contemporary Labels Push Toward Prestige
    Sandro, Maje, and Longchamp are leading a quiet but deliberate climb up the value chain — trading mid-market accessibility for cultural capital. Their latest moves, from flagship openings in Paris’s most exclusive districts to campaigns styled like luxury editorials, signal a coordinated push to narrow the gap with heritage houses. It’s a smart move. While many traditional maisons are struggling to define their next chapter, these contemporary labels are repositioning themselves as the new face of stealth wealth. The next French fashion success story may not come from legacy, but from evolution.

  • Creative chaos is the new catalyst.
    Morgan Stanley upgraded LVMH and Kering to Overweight and named *Kering its top luxury pick, citing a “creative supply shock” as new creative directors reshape the industry. The mood is shifting away from minimalism toward bolder, more expressive fashion — a change that could lift sales as consumers rediscover statement dressing.

    At Gucci, early reactions to Demna’s first collection have been positive, signaling that Kering’s creative reset may finally be working. Luxury’s next growth phase surprisingly doesn’t come from China or macro recovery — it is driven by brands that turn creative energy into commercial impact.

Wish I were there - pop-ups,  collabs, etc.

Pencil in, book the ticket, or just follow on social media — choose your option and let’s discuss afterwards!

Thanks for reading! Have a great week.

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