I came across old photos of Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen last week and was surprised by how their style genuinely hasn’t changed in years — and somehow it still works. The dark eye makeup in the era of “clean girl,” the hair tucked into their coats, the worn-in bags, the Marlboros instead of e-cigarettes… it’s all exactly the same in photos from 2012 and in photos from last month. And that consistency feels oddly refreshing when everything else in fashion moves so fast.

It just made me realise how rare it is to see someone’s style stay that steady. They’ve found what feels like them and never drifted, and I kind of love that.

Caught my eye

Valentino played with perception in 2023, releasing “jeans” made entirely of embroidery rather than actual denim.

Trends — what’s bubbling underneath the headlines

• The new rules of accessory hype

  Walmart’s viral “Birkin-but-not-a-Birkin” resurfaced this week at 85% off, triggering another wave of TikTok frenzy. Meanwhile, Trader Joe’s simple canvas tote continues its global run — I can count at least five on a short walk through a medium-sized European city centre, despite the brand having zero stores here. Together, they point to a new trend: everyday retailers are increasingly capable of creating low-cost accessories that break into culture and generate their own moments.

• The pink sweater moment

  My social feed was full of J.Crew’s bubble-gum-pink men’s sweater this week — conservatives dismissed it as emasculating, fashion voices saw it as a shift in gender codes, and it’s now marked as a bestseller on J.Crew’s site. It’s a simple move, but an effective one: newer brands and upcoming collections can use colour or other identity cues to break through the noise and attract outsized attention.

• The new luxury priority

  The latest Bain & Company / Fondazione Altagamma report forecasts the global personal luxury goods market will fall to €358 billion in 2025, down roughly 2% from €364 billion in 2024. Brands are losing touch with aspirational buyers, creative momentum is slowing, and consumers are shifting spending away from product-ownership toward liveable, sharable experiences. 

Business moves, big numbers & “wait, what?”

• Rebuilding the house of Kering. A memo seen by Reuters outlines Luca de Meo’s early diagnosis of Kering: the group needs to get smaller before it can grow again. The note calls for a reduction in store count, a tighter operational structure, and — most importantly — less reliance on Gucci, which still represents the majority of group profit despite its prolonged slowdown. The strategy is clear, but I’ll be paying close attention to how de Meo sequences the transformation — it’s a delicate balance to reset a group at this scale without unsettling the organisation behind it

• A New Italian Luxury Group? Prada Group’s acquisition of Versace appears to be the first step in a broader consolidation strategy. In comments to Reuters, Lorenzo Bertelli noted the house is open to additional deals and did not rule out Giorgio Armani, though he emphasised there have been “no contacts of any kind.” It’s notable to see an Italian group signalling expansion at this scale, especially as domestic players historically moved slower than French rivals.

Wish I were there - pop-ups,  collabs, etc.

Pencil in, book the ticket, or just follow on social media — choose your option and let’s discuss afterwards!

• Until 03.05.25 | Paris - Dior by Alaïa exhibition

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