My TikTok feed this week was full of The Row sample sale — scenes of long lines, obscene prices, and people literally paying others by the hour to stand in line for them. At first, I thought: brilliant marketing. Instead of launching “entry-level” products like makeup or perfume to attract younger consumers, The Row simply hosts an ultra-rare sale — a once-in-a-blue-moon gateway into a brand that almost never discounts. It’s smart inventory management technique too! But what followed is the backlash and cancelling because of its elitism and exclusion. And a much interesting and almost philosophical discussion: where is the line between exclusivity and snobbery? Can taste and luxury ever be truly inclusive? And after all it only feels offensive when we’re the ones left out.

Caught my eye

Not the best quality photo — but I came across it on Instagram, showing what first-class air travel looked like in 1970s Japan.

Trends — what’s bubbling underneath the headlines

• Scent strategy 2.0
  A recent report finds that nearly 38% of fragrance spend in the first half of 2025 came from households with a Gen Z member. And while that’s more correlation than causation, beauty companies like Coty and Estée Lauder are clearly adjusting — becoming leaner on makeup, heavier on scent, and betting that perfumes can deliver accessible luxury in uncertain times. I also noticed new business models stretching the idea of ownership itself — from secondhand perfumes on platforms like Reklaim to refillable formats and limited scent drops redefining what “collectible” means in beauty.

• Swapping finance for fashion

  An interesting project is underway in Chicago to find new use for underused office space in the financial district. As part of a $241.6 million redevelopment plan, roughly 485,000 sq ft of vacant offices will be transformed into fashion-first destinations — from runway venues and pop-up marketplaces to brand exhibitions in spaces once built for finance. With downtown office demand declining and consumers craving real-world experiences, it’s an interesting example of reimagining physical locations as cultural stages.

• Carewear or Greenwash?
  Coperni’s C+ collection turns activewear into “skincare you wear” by embedding a blend of probiotics and prebiotics into the fabric. Each gram reportedly contains up to 140,000 CFU/gof live bacteria, designed to transfer to the skin through movement and heat. The material is described as a “light biobased textile,” yet the product composition listed on Coperni’s website reads as 86% polyamide and 14% elastane. It’s an interesting innovation — but is this truly sustainable, or just cleverly green-washed?

Business moves, big numbers & “wait, what?”

• Hermès Strengthens Its Thread
  Hermès has taken a 15% stake in Lanificio Colombo, the Piedmont-based mill producing ultra-fine cashmere and rare fibres like vicuña wool. This acquisition gives Hermes tighter control over supply chain and privileged access to some of the world’s most elite raw materials. Earlier other players Chanel and Brunello Cucinelli each acquired a 24.5% stake in cashmere supplier Cariaggi Lanificio. It seems that luxury houses are now competing not only for customers, but also for craftsmanship — securing the rare materials and know-how that make true luxury possible.

• Marc Jacobs’ unfinished exit

  A few months ago, I wrote about LVMH’s reported plans to sell Marc Jacobs for around $1 billion, calling it a strategic “exit from the outside.” The logic still holds — but now the deal with Authentic Brands Group has reportedly collapsed. A failed sale doesn’t mean failure — it’s a signal of strategic recalibration. For LVMH the challenge is how to keep an iconic but mid-scale brand profitable in a world that rewards either mass or ultra-luxury, nothing in between.

Wish I were there - pop-ups,  collabs, etc.

Pencil in, book the ticket, or just follow on social media — choose your option and let’s discuss afterwards!

• 13.11-16.11.25 | Paris - Paris Photo at the Grand Palais

• 13.11-16.11.25 | Paris - A Shaded View on Fashion Film (ASVOFF)

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