New York Fashion Week is mostly through. The shows never get the same attention as Europe, and the big designer debuts are still to come in Milan and Paris. But from the shows I did see (Michael Kors, Ralph Lauren, Khaite, Simkhai, Off-White, Fforme, etc) it felt like trend cycles are stretching out. Oversized blazers, full monochrome looks, sheer and crochet fabrics, fringes — all things that were hot two years ago — are still everywhere on the runway. Either designers are holding back ahead of the new creative directors, or maybe this is just the new reality: fewer micro-trends, more slow burns. And honestly, that might not be such a bad thing.

Caught my eye

Karl Lagerfeld’s Fall/Winter 2025 campaign, From Paris With Love, features Paris Hilton —dressed, posed, and styled in homage to Karl himself

Trends — what’s bubbling underneath the headlines

• Starbucks goes couture

  At New York Fashion Week, Starbucks will unveil the Siren Dress, designed by Zac Posen and inspired by its mermaid logo. Starbucks faces slowing traffic in the U.S. (same-store sales down 3% last quarter) and weakness in China (sales down 11%). New CEO Brian Niccol, who took over in August 2025, is under pressure to return to growth. It positions Starbucks as a lifestyle brand beyond coffee. Recent activations include espresso martini tie-ins, music partnerships, and now a fashion week presence.

• Moncler money goes hospitality

  The Ruffini family holding company Ou(r) Group took a minority stake of 14.7 percent in La Bottega, the Italian group supplying luxury hotels with branded toiletries (like Acqua di Parma, Diptyque, Bottega Veneta). Terms weren’t disclosed, but its another example of synergy between fashion and hospitality: hotels are a captive audience for brand storytelling, and amenity lines often act as trial-size gateways into fragrance and beauty.

• Streetwear goes members-only

  Streetwear brand Kith, is launching Kith Ivy: a high-end private club in NYC’s West Village combining wellness, sport, dining, and community with a new apparel & performance line. Amenities include rooftop padel courts, a Giorgio Armani-designed spa, a gym, Cafe Mogador, and the first Erewhon tonic bar outside LA. Membership fees are rumored to start at ~$36,000 with ~$7,000/year dues. Hospitality is where brand worlds can scale without the volatility of fashion cycles.

• Exclusive data is the new luxury

  Ralph Lauren launches “Ask Ralph”. A new AI stylist trained on decades of RL archives now lives in the brand’s app, offering outfit suggestions and answering questions in a natural, conversational way (“Yes, you can wear white after Labor Day”). What I like is how RL makes AI feel human—like the advice comes from Ralph himself. More importantly, training on proprietary brand data turns AI from generic advice into something differentiated: a way to leverage legacy, create exclusivity, and make heritage feel alive in the digital age.

Business moves, big numbers & “wait, what?”

• Armani’s will: what’s next. Last week Giorgio Armani’s will was revealed. He instructed that his heirs must sell a 15% stake in his fashion empire within 18 months of his death, with priority given to LVMH, L’Oréal, or EssilorLuxottica. Between three and five years later, an additional 30–54.9% stake should go to the same buyer—or else the company should consider an IPO. The Armani Foundation must always retain at least 30% control. By mandating the Foundation keeps 30%+, Armani ensures degree of brand independence and continuity, even if a big group comes in.

• H&M doubles down in China. The Swedish company has relaunched its flagship in Shanghai as the “House of H&M”. While Chinese players like Shein and Urban Revivo push into physical retail abroad, H&M is doing the reverse: betting on brick-and-mortar in China. Also the “House of” framing feels very Asian—think House of Somewhere, House of Nowhere—signaling a cultural play as much as a retail one.

• Kering hits pause on Valentino. Kering and Qatar’s luxury fund Mayhoola have amended their deal, postponing Kering’s option to buy the remaining Valentino shares. Originally set for 2026, the put/call rights are now pushed back as both sides reassess amid luxury’s slowdown and Valentino’s performance. By pausing the Valentino deal, Kering avoids piling on more debt at a shaky moment—but it also leaves the group even more exposed to Gucci.

Wish I were there - pop-ups,  collabs, etc.

Pencil in, book the ticket, or just follow on social media — choose your option and let’s discuss afterwards!

• Starting 18.09.25 | Milan - A Film Installation by Alejandro G. Iñárritu at Fondazione Prada

• 18.09.-22.09.25 | London - London Fashion Week

• Until 06.10.25 | Paris - Safe Kitsune Airlines Pop-Up

Next steps

Please feel free to get in touch. I’d love to hear from you!

• Email: [email protected]

• Instagram

• LinkedIn

• TikTok

Forward this e-mail to a colleague or a friend

Read other content here